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Kevlar Canoe- Buy Your Souris River from Red Rock!

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2 thoughts on “Kevlar Canoe- Buy Your Souris River from Red Rock!

  1. Having just read an old post on the Souris River Quetico 16 solo canoe, have to add my two cents worth, as I own one. Instead of finding “just the right rock” for the small amount of weight to add to the front, I just wrap a couple of velcro ankle weights around the metal bow rung. I carry 4 of them with me, and add as needed based on the amount of wind I am encountering. Works like a charm. 🙂

    1. Thanks for your input.

      From a ballast standpoint, any object will do. However, there is a specific reason for using “the Perfect Rock” aka “bag of water”. If you load up a canoe with rocks and it takes on water, it could go to the bottom of the lake in the event that the canoe takes on water for whatever reason. Now, if the canoe rolls when capsized, the rocks can dump out but may not completely due to the lip of the gunwales or maybe getting caught under the seat. A sinking canoe means there is no floating canoe on which to hang while waving the other arm furiously for help. IF you have your life jacket on AND it is summer with warmer water, no floating canoe is a problem but less so. If you are floating in the cold water of spring, you have 15 minutes and hanging on a floating canoe improves your chances a bit. It is easier to see a canoe gunwale in the water than just a canoe bow or stern pointing to the sky and barely sticking out of water.

      Securing a weight to any part of a canoe guarantees that it will not fall away from the canoe upon its capsizing. This only increases the probabilities of an accident ending badly. I usually recommend that nothing ever be secured or lashed to a canoe. In the event of a capsize, righting the canoe with packs and gear hanging out but tied during the struggle of being half submerged really complicates self-rescue efforts and also tires one out a lot quicker. There is enough going on without another distracting layer of complications.

      That being said, using a water bag means that wherever a canoe can float, there is ballast. Crossing portages is really easy. When the canoe capsizes, the water bag is equal in density to the lake water and has no effect on the canoe’s ability to float, whatsoever.

      While I agree the ankle weights do the job, they also potentially put you at risk. Someday, when it is warm water, put on you rswim suit, life jacket and take the canoe in 4 feet of water and roll it with the weights secured into it on the bow. See what happens. And, whatever you do, resist the urge to do this test in the deepest part of the lake. I’ve always marveled at our canoe demo paddlers who take a canoe and test it’s stability over a 30 foot deep part of the lake, far from other humans. A canoe’s stability can be determined in 2 feet of water just as easily as 30 feet. Your canoe’s flotation compromise, if any, can be determined in 4 feet of water, as well.

      My guess is that the one end will sink and the point of the stern will be left pointing to the sky leaving you with very little to hold on to in the event of a capsize. This would not be good. I can tell you a true story about how a similar situation ended very badly in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. Just the bow of the canoe was barely there to hold on to and two people drowned.

      Be safe.

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